In times of upheaval, I lean on touchstones–works of art that have shaped me and the continue to be sources of inspiration, influence, and solace. It might be rereading a favorite novel, a cherished poem, a movie, or (especially often) a favorite album with a good pair of headphones.
How in the world does a cookbook belong on a list of touchstones that have shaped me as an artist? The Best Recipe, and more broadly, the works of America’s Test Kitchen, including their many cookbooks and magazine Cook’s Illustrated, have shaped me in several ways.
First, for their obsessive commitment to leaving no stone unturned in trying to find the best solution to their recipe challenge. They proudly describe the hundreds of batches they will try of a recipe in their pursuit of the ideal version. And their recipes typically come with a 1-2 page narrative that describes their desires for the recipe, their failed attempts, and their discoveries along the way. This commitment to exhaustive research is admirable and imitable in any artistic pursuit.
Second, for their belief that an ideal version can exist and is worth the extra work and meticulousness it takes. Their recipes aren’t always the easiest recipes, but they are the most consistently reliable, repeatable, and good.
Third, for their commitment to utter clarity in their writing. Part of what makes the recipes so good, beyond their experimentation, is that the recipes themselves are so understandable. The words are clear, concise, and direct. Surely a composer seeking to put their music into musicians hands can learn a lot from their carefully designed approach. What is a score, after all, but a musical recipe?
There are a dozen recipes I make very regularly – to the point of memorization – that come from their library, and dozens more I’ve learned from. Even when I use a different recipe or create my own, my approach is colored by the education they’ve provided.
As a musician and writer, I strive for meticulously prepared art, I am willing to go the distance to find the right solution, and I work very hard for clarity in all of my scores and writing; that’s why these cookbooks have pride of place in my kitchen, and have become a personal artistic touchstone.
Touchstones is an ongoing series of posts I’ll be writing during the COVID-19 season, reflecting on the works of art that support me in times of upheaval. I encourage you to make a list of your own “touchstones” and if you like, share them with me to publish here.